At the end of a wet but interesting day in Santiago de Compostela Kathy successfully caught her flight home. I returned by train to Vilagarcia.

A delayed start while I tried to find diesel meant that I made Muros late in the evening. There was no wind at first but by mid afternoon a sea breeze had filled in and we had a fine sail into the Ria de Muros. Close hauled all the following day got me only as far as Finisterre and I anchored in the delightful Ensenada de Sardinieros as the evening wind rose to 20 kn.

I was now getting close to my 15th July deadline to meet Paul in La Coruna and despite there being no wind at all the next day got as far as Corme. So far the Costa de Morte, the charmingly named stretch between Finisterre and La Coruna was not living up to its name. All that changed the following day as I left harbour prepared for a beat to Los Islas Sisargas then a close reach all the way to La Coruna. As I rounded the first headland the sea was moderately rough but the wind had veered to the NE and was strengthening steadily. When it topped 20 knots with some stronger gusts I considered my options. With still a good way to get north of the islands and the prospect of a beat for the remaining 25 miles to La Coruna, combined with a VMG of less than 2 kn as the seas shoved Kate to leeward I decided to turn back.

The NE wind has been well established now for over a week with no let-up and has been at times gale force. Paul came to Corme by bus and we have been making the most of our time here. There have been interesting moments besides exploring the bars. The Blessing of the Sea ceremony was accompanied by a fusillade of home made rockets, there was live music on the quay and there has been a bush fire with helicopters collecting water from the bay to drop on it. One of the yachts dragged its anchor while the owners were ashore and the was a bold and gallant rescue by three other yacht crews who got it clear of the bateas and re-anchored before the owners returned. During a morning lull Kate had a race around the batea grid in the bay with the venerable gaffer “Saunteress” and was soundly beaten. Her crew Martin and Luis have been excellent company all week.

The weather may change on Wednesday, just in time to get Paul to La Coruna to fly home.

21st July 2008

David Rainsbury

Words and Pictures

Date:

The engineless Saunteress, victor in our round the batea grid race.

Appealing name!

Beating in towards Cape Finisterre

 The blessing of the Sea

Update: 24th July

La Coruna, 9 days late

Wednesday dawned with barely a breath of wind and we left Corme as I had arrived, under engine.

The wind did rise for a short time and for an hour Paul had the chance to take the helm in a good sailing breeze . It didn’t last and we arrived in La Coruna late in the afternoon. In the marina close to the old city our first thought was of showers. We spent the evening in the Old City where a street market was in progress, all in Medieval costume.

Today Paul flies home and I will stay in La Coruna to do some work before heading for France. The time lost in Corme leaves me none spare to explore Las Rias Altas between here and Gijon so my plan is to sail as directly as possible towards La Rochelle. So far the weather looks settled, but will there be enough wind?